Fly Fishing Trips

Filed under: Fishing + Tackle — admin at 11:15 am on Friday, December 26, 2008

Everybody knows what fishing is, but fly fishing is not as well known. As the name implies, fly fishing is a method of fishing utilizing an artificial fly. It was developed as a technique for catching trout and has caught on all over the world, becoming a full fledged competitive sport. There are several competitions held all over the world at different times during the year open to anyone who thinks they have mastered this challenging sport.

Fly fishing has proved to be a boon for the tourism industry. Many travel companies now arrange special fly fishing trips all around the world, but especially in North America, Europe, Africa, and Oceania. The countries that are known for having the best places to go fly fishing are the United States, Canada, Mexico, Brazil, Finland, Ireland, Sweden, England, Namibia, Australia, and New Zealand.

People who are planning to go on such a trip should know what they need to take with them. It is necessary to buy fly reels, location-specific fly collections, and accessories like waders, hats, boots or jackets. Travelers should then decide whether or not they want a guide. People who already know how to fly fish may choose to go on an independent fly fishing trip. It is a good idea for beginners to hire a guide who can teach everything there is to know about the sport.

Fly fishing can take years to master, and some people get more enjoyment from the exotic locations they visit than they do from the actual sport. Each and every fly fishing destination offers its own unique charms.

Fly Fishing Trips provides detailed information about fly fishing trips, fly fishing gear, fly fishing knots and more. Fly Fishing Trips is affiliated with Bed And Breakfast Maine.

Fancy Catching Something Slightly Different? How About an Angler Fish?

Filed under: Fishing + Tackle — admin at 4:30 pm on Monday, December 15, 2008

The true Angler Fish lives in both shallow and deep water and there is regularly confusion over their identity as either Angler Fish or Monkfish. It is more a case that there is more than one variety of both and at some point the two species cross over. Some Angler Fish can legitimately be called Monkfish and vice versa, but then again, there are some Monkfish (although equally entitled to the name) which are actually from the Shark family. To go into that further would involve getting into the Latin names of the species which I’m not going to do here!

It is not the sort of fish that most people target but more the type that you would happen upon by accident when fishing for Flatties. They’re prefered habitat is a sandy/mud seabed but gravel or shell beds also offer much of an attraction where they eat anything in their path, especially smaller fish and shellfish. Their enormous mouths are adorned with large, extremely sharp and backwards facing teeth and they even have teeth in their throats so as to stop their prey from escaping until it has been safely swallowed.

It is, therefore, advisable to use a wire rig when targeting Angler Fish!

A good rig to use would be the standard paternoster or flapper rig with a grip lead as an anchor on the bottom and a flowing hook trace of about 3-4 feet. This allows the bait to move freely and naturally just above the seabed giving a great presentation and covering a wider area. Good baits to try would be baitfish such as Launce, Sandeel or a strip of Mackerel, Shellfish or Squid. Use a strong forged hook.

Scotland is a good place for Angler Fish including marks such as the islands of the Firth of Forth and the Summer Isles. Also, the offshore reefs around Wales, many areas within the Irish Channel and around the Isle of Man, and the northern and southern coasts of Devon and Cornwall.

If you catch an Angler Fish, it is advised that you operate a catch and release system as the Angler Fish has been suffering from a certain amount of overfishing due to its lovely flavour. Although it is only the tail of this fish which can be eaten the taste has been likened to lobster and they are sometimes used as mock scampi. We would definitely recommend that you release any Angler Fish to fight another day!

SeaFishingSupplies.co.uk is a secure online tackle shop specific to UK sea fishing. Our shop is VAT Free and delivery starts from 99p. http://www.SeaFishingSupplies.co.uk

Basic Information For Bass Fishing

Filed under: Fishing + Tackle — admin at 12:54 am on Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Since three-forth of the world is composed of bodies of water, it’s natural that a great number of people rely on fishing for their livelyhood or just for their recreation needs. There are numerous of fish species swimming under the lakes, seas, ponds, and rivers. Most anglers consider fishing as the delight in their purpose-driven life, a sport, as they say.

Bass fishing, at present, is considered as America’s number one freshwater sport, its industry is in fact seventy percent higher in growth compared to other types of fishing activities. Bass is a fish that belongs to the Serranidae family or sea basses and the Centrarchidae or the black basses. This family of perchlike fishes are large and oblong with compressed bodies that dwell in warm and temperate seas throughout the world.

Along the Atlantic coast, black or common sea basses a sluggish bottom fish are found. Its size averages 6 pounds or 2.7 kilograms in weight and 18 inches or 45 centimetres in length. The Pacific Sea basses, on the other hand, are giant fishes with bulky characteristics that reach a weight of 600 pounds or 270 kilograms and a length of 7 feet or 2.1 metres.

There are two things that should be considered in bass fishing, which are, the bass location on the lake or river and bass catching using different techniques, presentations and baits.

In locating bass dwellings, there are lots of different factors that have to be determined like map-reading, how to locate active bass just after cold fronts and during early spring and late fall periods, understanding water depth, water clarity, temperatures, seasonal patterns, locating structure areas and finding their vegetation areas.

In map reading, there are two general types of lake maps that most anglers use. These are the Hot Spot maps that show more fishing spots and the Topographical map which shows more details. Experiment first by taking it on shore and looking for areas where fish are most likely be. The next step would be familiarization.

In locating bass one element that should be considered is the vegetation or the area where they eat, breath and cover themselves. In other words, it is where they could be found to congregate. If there is no vegetation, other elements like irregular contours, shallow water close to deep-water areas, points and point drops and other types of structure can require alternative techniques.

The rest of the necessities are the selection of a few crankbaits. One needs a shallow diver and a deep diver but two colors of each are fine. A natural looking crankbait, one that resembles baitfish and a shocker bright one should be selected. These represent the two extremes, nonetheless are very effective.

The most successful method of catching bass is the crankbait. The throwing and retrieving method can be done with varying speed and its depth can be determined by the speed of the reeling and by the pole.

Bass love colorful lures and they seem to hit them more often. When fishing with these lures, one should always try to make them look good in the water and make the bass come after them. This can be done by making them swim as realistically as possible.

Bumping these lures against objects in the water attracts fish, but the chance of getting the lure stuck might be a risk you don’t want to take.

A worm, on the other hand, is a good lure and represents the most edible and tasty meal. Even plastic worms will do.

Before competitions became a part of it, bass fishing was reserved for seasoned anglers and did get much media coverage. It was a recreation mostly practiced in the springtime and mostly early in the mornings and late in the afternoons all over the globe. Now, it has grown tremendously in every way, from the effort to gain knowledge to the technology to the equipment used to get the best results.

For more information visit http://www.bass-expert.com

The author has a number of hobby sites and likes to share useful articles with like minded folk.

Opening Day Of Fishing Season

Filed under: Fishing + Tackle — admin at 9:49 pm on Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Well, here it is the end of April.

Like the uncontrollable urges that the groundhog, the wild turkey, and Brad Pitt, have come over them at this time of year, it is a time when an internal alarm goes off in the fisherman.

Unlike those sex crazed species, the anglers yearly sense of duty is aroused by…..

….Opening day, trout season.

A time when the trees bloom, lakes thaw, and man struggles with that eternal question:

Should I mow the nine inch weeds or go fishing?

To me, that is like asking would I like a hot fudge sundae or a liver transplant?

Of course, as I drive out to one of our local fishing waters here in Oregon, and pass many of the guys on the liver transplant recipient list, I am thankful that not every male is of the same mindset as myself.

Otherwise, what was ice and snow a month ago, would be fibreglass and aluminum now. In other words, you could walk across a lake from boat to boat without ever touching water.

To say opening day of trout season is usually crowded, is the ultimate understatment. As much a social event as it is a fishing outing. If you are looking for solace and a little quiet time, you are probably better off telling your wife you are going fishing and then slipping into the basement for a nap.

At least you still won’t have to mow the weeds.

But with waters that have usually been closed or limited to ice fishing for six months, the chance of catching a really nice trout are pretty good. No pressure and a scarce food supply over the winter months, make the opening day ambush a day when the odds are stacked in the fishermen’s favor.

This year, in Oregon we have been blessed with an abundant snow year which has found many of the high mountain lakes sitting with over 300 percent of the usual snowpack. Fishing boats may have to be replaced by snowmobiles,and anglers may look more like Eskimos than fishermen.

In places where the ice has melted, the water is c-c-c–c cold. Under 40 degrees. These are conditions that usually make for slow and sluggish trout and fish that are spread out looking for warm pockets of water and fish parkas. Nonetheless, there will be opening day success and Jack Daniels stock may rise considerably over the weekend.

So, if you are heading out for the opening day “fishfest”—good luck and enjoy the festivities.

And if you are staying home to mow the weeds, well, I hope you don’t wind up getting a fishermen’s liver…..

A.J. Klott
Author, writer of fishing humor,and “fly tack” peddler.A.J. writes about the people,characters and modern day events that surround the fishing world. His first book is due out in December of 2005.
If you need a laugh or a fun gift, visit his website at:
http://www.twoguyswithflys.com

Fishing Bait For Kingfish

Filed under: Fishing + Tackle — admin at 11:07 pm on Sunday, November 9, 2008

Kingfish is a beautiful fish and on the list of many fishermen as their favorite. Kingfish are also known as whiting or sea mullet. These are fish that swim in surf making fishing a totally extraordinary experience. They live and move in schools of thousands and of course if you caught one, then you are in the middle of it.

Kingfish are small fish with even smaller mouths. They love clams, worms and crabs - mostly things that are found on shores. The angler can use any of these things as baits, but should always keep in mind that it should not be lowered too much so that other fish or crab steal the bait. Spinner hooks work very well for catching these fish. So are Styrofoam floats adapted on rigs with shank hooks, or Sea Striker gold hooks.

The best bait, the bait which the kingfish simply cannot resist are expensive and almost royal, i.e. the bloodworm. The angler can use one or two worms alone on the hook or in combination with some other bait like strip of pork, mullet or even squid. If you cannot have the bloodworm, you can use its closest substitute, the night-crawler. Though nothing can really give the results the bloodworm gives, a good combination with night-crawler and strips or squares of squid work pretty well. Do not let the night-crawler get washed out however; the kingfish will not touch it.

The baits should be smallish since the kingfish are small biters and do not really go for any big chunks, even if they look wounded and tasty. Use happily spot, mackerel, squid, mullet or any combination of these if you do not have bloodworms. Kingfish are also very attracted to fillets - so if you like to use mullet, use de-scaled finger type fillets. It is a little known fact that sand flies make just as good effective baits for these fish and with a little patience and free time, the angler can get them for free (catch them themselves).

Keep the bait on the move as the kingfish are attracted to on-the-move type of bait. However, move it slowly and tantalizing just as in cat-and-mouse game for best results. The mostly swim around the shore so the angler should best concentrate his efforts there. Kingfish cannot resist baby clams - though it is not easy to get them, these bait are sure-fire ways to catch kingfish.

In the sea the kingfish always tends to swim towards the shore - so that is the best way to position yourself to catch them. In lakes/ oceans the best time to fish for kingfish is early in the morning till about 10.00 am and late evening after 6.00 pm.

Find more articles about Kingfish or fishing in general at the website Anglerhelp.com - fishing resource which contain alot of articles related to the world of fishing.

Make Your Own Snag-Free Sinkers (Slinky Sinkers)

Filed under: Fishing + Tackle — admin at 8:15 pm on Saturday, November 8, 2008

After seeing a pair of snag-free sinkers at local tackle shop going for $5.00 I decided to do a little research on snag-free sinkers to see if I could make my own. I have been fishing with guides who made their own and figured there would be something on the internet about it. A quick search on Google landed me on the Forum of KatMasters.com. I found a couple of posts about the snag-free sinkers and decided to make them myself. Listed below are step-by-step instructions on how to make your own snag-free (slinky) sinkers. It is not rocket science, but I figured an article would help.

Materials & Tools

  • Nylon boot laces
  • Size BB Split-shot
  • Pliers
  • Lighter
  • Drinking Straw
  • Knife or Scissors

Step 1: Determine how much split-shot to use. I didn’t have anything to measue how many ounces a single piece of split shot was, so back to Google I went. I found that 9 pieces of size BB split-shot weighs 5 grams. Great, but how many grams are in an ounce? Google says: 1 gram = 0.0352739619 oz. So I got out the old calculator and figured that roughly 50 pieces of size BB split-shot make up an ounce. After laying out my 50 pieces, I quickly noticed that my finished sinker would be over 9 inches long. I decided to make 1/2 oz sinkers with what I had and to go back to Bass Pro Shops and get larger split-shot for my 1 oz sinkers.

Step 2: Cut the ends off of the boot laces. You will see an inner lace and an outer nylon shell. Pull the inner piece out of the shell. You will be left with the outer nylon.

Step 3: (Optional) - Cut a drinking straw at an angle so you can use it to funnel the split-shot into the end of the lace. If you do not use a straw, the end of the lace will unravel more than if you did use a straw. The straw that I used was too big around to stick it completely into the lace. If I had a smaller straw or a lace with a larger diameter it probably would have worked better.

Step 4: Since I was making a 1/2 oz sinker with size BB split-shot I found that it was best to put the shot in 3 at a time and pinch it down the lace until it was in the lace about 1 inch longer than the length of a finished sinker. Since my final product was 4.5 inches, I pushed the split-shot down to 5.5 inches from the end of the lace. This left enough lace at the end to cut off and melt. I also found that pinching the split-shot closed made it slide down the lace easier.

Step 5: Next I held the end of the lace with my side-cutter pliers. These worked great because I could clamp onto the end of the lace very easily. Needle-nose pliers would work fine here too.

Step 6: Next use the lighter to melt the end of the lace. Be sure to place something on top of your work area to prevent a “wife delivered knot” from forming on your head…er to prevent hot burning nylon from damaging the work surface (dining room table in my case).

Step 7: While the nylon is still hot, use the pliers to pinch the end of the lace closed. This also makes it easier to get the snap-swivel on.

Step 8: Last, add the snap-swivel to the end of the sinker.

With 1 box of split shot containing 150 pieces, I was able to make six 1/2oz sinkers. After adding it all up they came out to $0.83 a piece. (It is actually a little less because I had some material left over.) Compared to $2.50 a piece this was a steal. This was my first time trying to do this and I was able to make 1 sinker in 5 minutes. I am sure once I start doing this more, I will get quicker.

Things I would do different.

  • Use a larger size of split-shot - BB was just too small. A 1 oz sinker would have been over 9 inches long.
  • Larger diameter rope - The boot laces worked great for size BB split-shot, but I would need something bigger if I went to a larger size.
  • Smaller snap-swivel - I think I could have gotten by with size 5 instead of size 3.
  • Use lead (shotgun) shot instead of split shot. - This will save time closing the split shot.

This article was written by M.Becatti.
You can visit Carolina-Fishing.com for further information about fishing in the Carolinas.

Fly-out Fishing in Alaska

Filed under: Fishing + Tackle — admin at 12:24 am on Saturday, November 8, 2008

We began our July fishing adventures on a DeHavilland Beaver float plane with pilot and 4 passengers plus our gear for a day fishing at Big River Lakes. Light layers and neoprene chest waders were all the gear that was needed.

We left Lake Hood in Anchorage about 9 a.m. heading across Cook Inlet to Lake Clark National Park west of Redoubt Bay and arrived at our destination around 10:30 a.m.

The flight was easy and enjoyable with sunny skies, taking in the scenery of the Aleutian Range as we flew closer. We arrived and transferred our gear to a flat bottom aluminum boat and the pilot/guide took us across the lake to fish on the west shore beside the stream. The planes are parked on muskeg, much too soggy for fishing so the pilots do double duty and run the boats as well.

Big River Lakes is a series of interconnected lakes that are a popular fly-out fishing spot. There were at least 3 other airplanes there the day we went out. A nearby lodge is well suited for bear viewing and we shared the lake with many other boats.

Soon after we arrived a 400 pound black bear come in to the stream feeding from the lake and he was there maybe 5 minutes when he suddenly took off when a 3-4 year old, 800-pound boar brown bear showed up. The brown bear fished for about 30-40 minutes while we stayed on shore well away from him. Though the bear was calm and showed no aggression to us, everyone stayed on the boats and gave him plenty of respect allowing him access to his fishing hole. He wandered off down the bank of the lake and 30-40 minutes later a sow with 3 cubs showed up. The sow was teaching the cubs how to fish, but the cubs were more interested in simply playing in the lake and checking out the fishermen. The sow paid no attention to the humans gathered and seemed to have no interest in our presence.

After they ate their fill, they proceeded down the bank on the south side of the lake, leaving the peaceful lakes once more to the fishermen. As she disappeared, the male brown bear began to swim across the lake from the north bank to the south, a distance of about 500 yards. As he got to the south shore and went into the woods, there was a loud ruckus and we assumed the sow had a confrontation with the male who was chased off, though he was nearly 300 pounds more than the sow. Shortly the male emerged from the south shore and swam back toward the north shore.

Unconcerned about the antics of the local bear population, we continue our quest for the Red Salmon we had come to fish. We stayed on the lakes about 5 hours and everyone caught their limit, catching and releasing fish until we were ready to head back to Anchorage. With no rain, mild temperatures, and no mosquitoes, we had a wonderful day fishing.

Our fishing adventures can be found at http://www.alaska-rainbow-trout-fishing.com and you can reach us by email info@alaska-rainbow-trout-fishing.com.

Baitcasting Reels - Definitely Worth Learning, Pt. 2

Filed under: Fishing + Tackle — admin at 5:42 pm on Friday, November 7, 2008

If you want to get serious about bass fishing, it’s important that you learn to use all the tools.

The one I’m going to discuss now is the baitcasting reel. The benefits of these were discussed in Baitcasting Reels - Worth Learning, Pt. 1.

So, what is the best way to tackle these buggers? First, you’ll want to make sure it’s set up right. Let’s adjust the brakes on the system to help alleviate some bird’s nests.

Start learning the baitcasting reel with a 3/8 oz. or a 1/2 oz. weight until you get the hang of it.

Put the break at it’s highest setting, usually 10. Now, adjust the spool tension as tight as it will go (usually on the right side with no numbers). Hold the rod and reel straight out in front of you and click the line release button to allow the lure to fall straight down to the ground. Start backing off the spool tension until the lure (I use practice plugs) slowly falls to the ground, and when it hits, no more line comes off the spool. This is the correct setting.

While you are practicing (yes, you are going to need to practice with this reel), back off on the brake just a little at a time. Eventually you will get more comfortable with the new settings and you should be able to cast farther. Experiment with different settings with the brake and spool.

Don’t Overspool

While you are learning the baitcasting reel, do not overspool. Adding too much line, at least until you get used to throwing it, will cause backlash. By adding less line to the reel, less line comes off with every rotation and it’s easier to avoid backlashing, especially with mono which has a memory and will loosely coil up around the spool once tension is relieved.

Make Sure To Get The Right Combo

The lighter the lure you are casting, the shorter the rod you need for the baitcasting reel. Using too long of a rod with a light weight will result in backlash. Casting a 1/8th or 1/4 ounce plastic plug will result in little if any load up on the rod tip from midway up with a 7 foot rod and the bird’s nests are inevitable.

Also, the 7 foot rod is not meant for casting. It is meant for lobbing 2 handed as in the Carolina rig or for underhanded pitching as in 1/2 ounce and up jigs. Get a 6 foot medium heavy or a 6 foot 6 inch medium heavy rod and then try 2 handed casting. You will have much more control over the spool as you feather it with your thumb.

Thumbs Up - Or Down

The whole trick to using the baitcasting reel is the use of the thumb. Applying and releasing pressure to the spool with your thumb is the key to this system, and you must master it.

Here it is in a nutshell: put the thumb on the line to hold it in place while you click the line release button. Cast the lure by releasing the thumb pressure, but keep the thumb barely touching the line. As the lure reaches its destination, apply more pressure with the thumb as a brake and to keep the line from spooling off into a bird’s nest.

Easier said than done. It takes a lot of practice to get the right touch.

Again, when you cast keep your thumb on lightly on the spool. A brief touch of more pressure at the beginning of the cast and less as it goes out. Keep practicing until you can cast over and over without a bird’s nest and then start easing off the tension knob and the brake.

Don’t try to be a hero. Throwing too hard will snag you up. Throw a moderate distance until you get used to it. As you get better at this, you will see your distance improve.

Now, there is much more to be said about all of this. I have compiled a list of tips for you in Baitcasting Reels - Worth Learning, Pt. 3

—-
By >Bobby Ivie

Bobby Ivie is an avid fishman and owner of Fishing-Hunting-Camping.com. He makes the biggest part of his living on the Internet, NetBizWorkshop.net

This article may be reprinted as long as this source box is added and the source box hyperlinks are kept intact.
—-

Fishing Reels 101 - Part 2

Filed under: Fishing + Tackle — admin at 1:02 am on Friday, November 7, 2008

Casting

Casting reels have a visible line spool that lays perpendicular to the rod so it functions much like a winch. This type of reel has a trigger to release the spool and the spool turns when the crank is turned. There is usually a spoke wheel drag adjustment around the base of the crank handle. There will be a spool tension adjustment knob and sometimes an adjustment for tuning the spool rotation speed when you are casting. The last two adjustments are used to maximize the casting distance while minimizing the amount of backlashes. Backlashes occur when the spool rotates faster than the line is pulled off the spool. This causes the line to start winding back around the spool in the opposite direction and somehow you always end up with a knot or a complete mess that requires clippers to solve.

To cast a rod equipped with a casting reel do the following:


  1. Place your thumb on the trigger and make sure it overlaps the spool.

  2. Press the trigger and use your thumb to keep the spool from turning.

  3. Start your casting motion.

  4. On the forward part of the casting motion remove your thumb from the spool.

  5. As the lure flies through the air, you may need to lightly touch your thumb to the spool to prevent it from rotating faster than the lure pulls line. This usually will happen during high wind situations, or when your lure goes up farther than out.

  6. When your lure hits the water, place your thumb on the spool to stop rotation. If this is not done you can, and probably will get a backlash.
Tips:
When first starting to learn to use a casting reel, adjust your spool tension as follows:



    1. Tie on the lure you are going to use.

    2. Hold the rod out horizontal and trip the trigger.

    3. Allow the lure to fall to the ground/water and observer the spool. Tighten the spool tension so they spool stop rotating on its own when the lure strikes the water. This will help reduce backlashes.

    4. As your skill increases you can adjust the tension and magnetic drag systems to fine tune your reel.

Fly

Single Action Fly Reels

Single Action Fly reels consist of a simple spool with a housing around it. The housing has a large hole for the line to come out of. There is a small handle on the spool used for cranking and a simple drag system. These reels are the most widely used of the fly reels. They are used to hold line and fight a fish when one is hooked.

Automatic Fly Reels

Automatic fly reels have a spring system located inside the reel and a trip lever to wind the line back on the spool. As you pull off line the reel spring loads up. When you trip the lever it releases tension in the spring and causes the spool to rotate and wind the line back in. Automatic fly reels are not designed for fighting fish, and as such, have no drag system.


Casting a flyrod will not be covered in this article because entire books are written on the subject. I may write an article about fly casting at a later date.

http://www.michfish.com Michigan fishing information, forums, online fishing diary, and interactive lake maps

Largemouth Bass Fishing At Lake Gaston.

Filed under: Fishing + Tackle — admin at 3:59 pm on Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Lake Gaston is located in both Virginia and North Carolina. It is a large lake of 20,300 acres. Many professional and amateur tournaments are held here each year, so it receives a good deal of fishing pressure. This is where we competed in the Regional Finals for the Red Man Tournament Trail in 2000. The main species of fish in the lake are largemouth bass, striped bass, and black crappie. Other species include some walleye, chain pickerel, white perch, bluegill, and catfish. The main forage base is composed of alewife, gizzard shad, threadfin shad, and herring.

Lake Gaston has relatively stable water levels, and high quality water. There is a good population of largemouth bass, with many large fish available. Most of the bass we catch at Gaston run around 15 inches and about 1 1/2 pounds. We have caught numerous 5 and 6 pounders and some larger fish were caught in the finals. In fact, some of these fish were 8 or 9 pounds. The lake record is 14 pounds 2 ounces, so there are plenty of big bass left in Lake Gaston. Gaston’s striped bass fishery depends mainly on stocking. Many striped bass are caught each year that weigh 3 to 8 pounds, but plenty of 20 pounders are taken each year. The walleyes are doing good at Gaston also and many trophy fish of 8, 9 , & 10 pounds are caught. We caught a few of the Strpiers while fishing for bass on the Lucky Craft crankbait shown below.

The striped bass make a spawning run each year up to the Roanoke river in April and May. Lake Gaston has a variety of structure also, such as submerged bridges, stumps, submerged roads, and lots of grass in the summer. Most of the water flowing into Lake Gaston comes from the Roanoke river. The visibility in the lake usually ranges from 4-8 feet, although heavy rains can make it muddy. There is a thermocline in Gaston in the summer at about 20-25 feet. In the summer, oxygen levels are low are far down as Great Creek. The bottom is sand and gravel with some flats covered in silt, and clay hillsides. The shoreline is mostly wooded, with some high slopes. North Carolina Power and Virginia Power owns the entire 350 mile shoreline. There are lots of docks, rip rapped banks, and brushpiles. there are really a lot weeds, including elodea, milfoil, and hydrilla. This is especially true in the creek arms and coves, with the deep weedline at about 10 feet. They do treat the grass and also have added some grass carps.

The best locations for largemouth bass in the spring (March & April), are the northside creeks, especially Pea Hill and Lizard. They normally turn on first as soon as the water temperature reaches about 50 degrees. The next places that turn on is the southside arms, especially Lees and Poe. We like to fish these areas around the boathouses, rip rap, and laydowns with a chrome / blue Ambush Stealth Diver and a Terminator Colorado spinnerbait. We stick to the structure that is in the 5-10 foot deep water. Bass here start to spawn around April 15th, and last till around June. The other areas that can be real productive are Pea Hill and Six-Pound Creeks. Sometimes we use floating worms, and wacky-rig them for some hot action. Another method that works good in these areas is soft plastic jerkbaits. During the tournament, and at other times also, we really caught most of the better fish on these baits. “Sizmic” Flu-Go’s” were our top producers. Lake Gaston is known for a good topwater bite. You can really get into some decent bass in these areas on buzzbaits and poppers also. Even Lucky Craft “Sammy’s” produce well at times.

Later in the year, about June, the largemouth like to relate to classic bottom structure like humps, points, and stream channels, or even large beds of hydrilla. These hydrilla beds produce large bass as well as numbers until about September. We usually probe the deep weedline with a Texas-rigged worm or Yamamoto grub. The ‘SENKO’s’ also produce well here. Usually in the mornings and at dark, we twitch jerkbaits over the top of the hydrilla, or even throw Terminator buzzbaits.

If you like to fish structure, then the main lake points at creek mouths like Pretty Creek are good. Another good spot that has bass on humps and drop offs is Hubquarter and Lyons Creeks. The 15-20 foot deep area are best, as that is where most of the baitfish are. Carolina rigged lizards are a good choice, as are for worms, ‘SENKO’s’ and grubs. At times, we catch good fish here on deeper crankbaits as well. The water starts to cool off a lot in October and November, and the bass start moving back to the 5-10 foot deep water. The best areas at this time are Jimmie’s, Lizard, and Six-Pound Creeks. We use a 3/8 to 1/2 ounce jig at this time, with a black/blue or brown/orange ‘Uncle Josh Pork trailer’.

We like to carry several spinning rods for the lighter lures, in different lengths, from 6-61/2 feet, with a medium action, in a good graphite rod such as a G Loomis and Falcon. We like Shimano and Tica reels, spooled with a 8-10 pound Trilene. For baitcasters, we carry a variety of rods, in 6 1/2 to 7 foot lengths, in a medium/hvy action, and a crankbait rod, in 7 foot. We use Falcon’s and G Loomis rods, and Shimano reels on most outfits, with 17-20 pound test.

All the tackle we use is from Delaware Tackle at www.delawaretackle.com

Steven Vonbrandt - EzineArticles Expert Author

Owner of Anglers Radio and Delaware Tackle at http://www.reeltimeanglers.com

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